If water is spraying from under a sink or a faucet will not shut off, the first minute counts more than the repair. Our dispatch is open 24/7, and the move that helps most while you wait is closing a valve.
Look under the sink for the two small oval-handled valves, called angle stops, and turn them clockwise. If they are stuck or leaking themselves, go to the main shutoff, usually near the water meter, and close it. A line that has actually split is a job for burst pipe repair, and we can handle the fixture side in the same visit.
Water Spraying From a Faucet or Supply Line
Shut the water off first, then protect the cabinet and floor. Do not wait to see if the leak slows down, since a braided supply line that has burst keeps flowing until the valve is closed.
If the angle stop will not turn or has no handle left, close the main valve for the house. We offer same-day appointments when available, and an after-hours call reaches a live dispatcher.
- Turn the angle stops under the sink clockwise, or close the main valve.
- Open a low faucet in the house to drain pressure from the line.
- Empty the cabinet, set a bucket under any drip and mop standing water.
- Turn off power to anything plugged in near the water.
A faucet that drips, and the part that is worn
A faucet drips for one reason, which is that a seal inside it no longer closes tightly. The worn part depends on the faucet design, and picking the right repair saves money on parts you did not need.
| Faucet type | What usually wears out | Repair |
|---|---|---|
| Compression, two handles | Rubber washer and brass seat | Replace the washer, and resurface or replace the seat |
| Single-handle cartridge | O-rings or the cartridge itself | Swap the cartridge |
| Ball-type, often in kitchens | Springs, seals and the cam | Rebuild kit or full replacement |
| Ceramic disc | Seals under the discs | Replace the cylinder |
A drip of one drop per second wastes thousands of gallons of water in a year. Mineral buildup also locks cartridges in place, so we often replace the whole cartridge rather than only the O-ring.
Kitchen sinks and bathroom vanities do not fail alike
A kitchen faucet works harder. It runs hot and cold all day, carries a pull-down spray hose, and a leak under the sink can ruin a cabinet floor before anyone sees it. Common failures are a worn spray head hose, a cracked aerator and a loose mounting nut that lets the faucet wobble.
Bathroom faucets are simpler, but their drains and pop-up stoppers often cause the water trouble people blame on the faucet. A slow bathroom sink may need drain cleaning instead of a new tap, so we check both before replacing anything.
Showers and tubs that will not behave
Shower and tub valves sit behind the wall, so part of the repair is access. A shower that drips from the head after you turn it off has a worn valve cartridge. A shower that swings between hot and cold often needs a new pressure-balancing cartridge.
On a tub with a spout diverter, the knob or pull-up lever sends water to the showerhead. When the diverter wears out, water pours from the tub spout while you shower. Replacing the spout often fixes it, while a showerhead that sprays sideways may just need cleaning of mineral deposits in the nozzles.
Some valves can only be reached through an access panel behind the wall, or by opening tile. We cannot see inside a wall without opening it, so we explain the access plan before we cut anything. If we suspect a hidden leak behind the shower, leak detection tells us where it is before we touch the wall.
When the shutoff valve will not shut off
Angle stops and old multi-turn valves seize from years of sitting open. When one will not close, a fixture repair cannot happen without cutting off the whole house. Forcing a corroded handle can snap the stem and start the leak you were trying to avoid.
We replace worn stops with quarter-turn valves, which are easier to find and use in an emergency. If a valve is leaking at the stem, a packing nut adjustment sometimes stops it, but a valve that weeps after being turned for decades is better swapped. A house that has gone through cold winters in the south suburbs often has a few stiff shutoffs, so it is worth testing yours before a failure.
Repair it or replace it?
If the faucet is under ten years old and the body is intact, repair is usually the cheaper route. A faucet with a corroded body, leaking at the base, with discontinued parts, or a finish that is peeling is a better candidate for replacement.
A quick rule of thumb
If one new part restores a smooth shutoff, repair. If the body is pitted, the handle is loose on a worn stem, or we would be replacing the cartridge and the valve seat together, the cost starts to match a new faucet and replacement makes more sense.
Putting in a new kitchen or bathroom fixture
Installing a new faucet sounds easy until the nuts are rusted solid under a deep sink. We handle the removal, set the new fixture on the deck, connect new braided supply lines and test for leaks. Sinks, tubs and showers can be fitted with new trim at the same time.
Shut off and clear
Close the stops, open the old faucet to drain the lines and clear the cabinet.
Remove the old unit
We break loose the mounting nuts and disconnect the supply lines.
Set and connect
The new faucet goes on the deck, and fresh supply lines tie it to the stops.
Flush and test
We run both temperatures, check every joint under the sink and clean the aerator.
A bigger project, such as a new sink location or moving supply piping, is plumbing installation work and may need a permit. The Village of Park Forest requires all contractors to be Park Forest licensed and adopts the Illinois State Plumbing Code, so ask us if your job needs one. For a toilet that shares the bathroom, see our toilet repair page.
What affects the cost of faucet and fixture work
Repair or full replacement
A cartridge swap is a smaller job than a new faucet, and a new faucet costs more than the labor to connect it.
Fixture brand and finish
Basic chrome faucets and designer finishes or touchless models cover a broad span of prices, and some parts are hard to source.
Shutoff valve condition
Seized or corroded stops often must be replaced before the fixture can be changed.
Access behind walls
Shower and tub valves may need an access opening or tile work, which adds time and sometimes another trade.
Timing of the call
Nights, weekends and holidays are priced differently from a scheduled daytime appointment.
Insurance may cover sudden water damage from a burst line but generally not a worn faucet, so photograph any damage before cleanup. Most fixture swaps do not need a permit, but we will tell you if yours does. Call (855) 575-2890 for a real number based on your faucet and your valves.
Get Your Real NumberQuestions we hear
Yes. Our dispatch line runs 24/7. We do not promise an arrival time, but we offer same-day appointments when available, and we can talk you through shutting off the water while you wait, which limits the damage.
The valve seat is probably pitted, so the new washer cannot seal against it. A worn seat can be resurfaced or replaced. If the faucet is a cartridge or disc design, the leak is more likely a worn cartridge than a washer.
Look inside the cabinet below a sink for two small valves on the pipes going up, called angle stops. Turn them clockwise to close. If there are none, or they are stuck, close the main house shutoff, usually by the water meter.
Often yes. A worn cartridge or a failed balancing valve inside the wall usually causes it. If the shower is cold even when the other fixtures run hot, the water heater may be the cause, so we check that before opening the wall.
A line that is dripping slowly is urgent, and one that is spraying is an emergency. Braided supply lines can burst at the crimped ends without warning. Close the stop and call us, because the water will not stop on its own.
If the body is sound and one part is worn, repair makes sense. If the finish is pitted, it leaks at the base, or parts are no longer made, replacement is the better value. We tell you which applies when we see it.
Standards and sources
Written by the Park Forest Express Plumbing team. Plumbing work in Illinois follows the Illinois Plumbing Code, 77 Ill. Adm. Code 890, which the Village of Park Forest adopts. The Village Building Department states that contractors must be Park Forest licensed and that a permit is required. You can confirm any plumber's license on the Illinois Department of Public Health license verification tool.